Multi-Corrective, Multi-Functional & Multi-Purpose

This year seems to be the year of anti-ageing creams, this would be the concern of everyone no matter what age they are. I’ve been told by beauty advisors that their customers start using expensive anti-ageing serums from the age of 25. I didn’t start using such serums till I was well in my 30s which probably explains why I have lines on my neck which are irreversible.

Kiehl’s breakthrough anti-ageing product of 2013 is the Super Multi-Corrective Cream (“SMCC”) which targets multiple key signs of aging. Kiehl’s chemists focused on three ingredients that until now have never been combined in a cream:

Jasmonic Acid that triggers and regulates a plant responses to these external stressors.  It has an important role in the plant’s self-repair response and resistance to wounding.

Beech Tree Extract, known for its ability to improve skin firmness and visibly improve plumpness and density.  Beech Tree Extract is a xylose based molecule, a sugar found abundantly in beech trees and known to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)*.

Fragmented Hyaluronic Acid, known to reinforce skin’s natural short and long term moisturization.  Additionally, it is known to improve skin elasticity while reducing skin roughness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Kiehl’s chemists were determined to formulate this multi-tasking innovation in a cream formula for two reasons:

• To ensure the delivery system of the three anti-aging ingredients could additionally offer nourishing, anti-aging hydration benefits – a key factor in improving skin barrier and skin texture.
• To act as a “harder working, multi-tasking” anti-aging solution, one that easily fits into a busy woman’s daily routine.

This achievement took 39 trials and 17 months to overcome due to the following key challenges:

Challenge #1: Incorporate Jasmonic Acid into a cream base without destabilizing the emulsion

The salt form of the Jasmonic Acid was chosen due to its proven efficacy offering gentle retexturizing benefits to the skin, without irritation. Until now, this salt version of Jasmonic Acid has typically been used in serums as the ingredient is easier to stabilize in a serum base. In a cream base, building viscosity** is challenging due to high concentration of electrolytes in this form of Jasmonic Acid.  The concentration of electrolytes can easily disrupt most emulsifiers in an oil-in-water emulsion resulting in the combination separating.  This challenge was overcome by Kiehl’s chemists selecting and fine tuning the level of specific, robust emulsifiers to ensure the integrity of the formulation.  This technical achievement enabled Kiehl’s customers to have an anti-aging cream that offers the known efficacy of a serum.

Challenge #2:  Ensuring an elegant texture of the product on the skin.

Stabalizing the formula is not the only challenge with utilizing the highly effective ingredient Jasmonic Acid.  This ingredient adds an additional complexity.  During formulation, it can disrupt the formula’s texture, making it less spreadable.  Kiehl’s chemists needed to deliver a stable and effective formula that also provided a soft, aesthetic touch. To achieve this, they formulated with the nourishing emollient Shea Butter to provide a hydrated, silky texture on the skin.

Challenge #3: Incorporate Beech Tree Extract at a potent level + hydration without “stickiness”.

Known for its ability to improve skin firmness and visibly improve plumpness and density, Beech Tree Extract had strong potential when Kiehl’s chemists sought to develop a multi-tasking anti-aging powerhouse.  They were challenged because this ingredient is known to encourage a sticky texture in a formula.  Coupled with important hydration ingredients for the cream base, Kiehl’s chemists were facing an extremely “stickier” texture than they normally are able to overcome.  As not all emollients are created equal***, Kiehl’s chemists had to carefully select ideal emollients to balance this “uber sticky” formula.   Super Multi-Corrective Cream’s special blend of emollients were chosen for their ability to impart a light, dryer feel with others selected for their ability to impart a richer feel.

The texture of this cream is very light and silky. My skin instantly felt much softer and smoother. I have been using the full-size product (previously I only had a sample) for the past 4 weeks. It certainly feels luxurious and I love the botanical scent.

My skin has a more rested and refined appearance and feels firmer. As a moisturizer, it has been very good for my dry skin. I haven’t seen more redefined facial contours although I do think my skin looks more plumped up since using SMCC.

SMCC is 50ml/RM210.

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*Epidermal ground substance (the non-cellular components of extracellular matrix) which binds water, increasing epidermal hydration and thickness.

**Measure of the “thickness” of a fluid.  For example honey has a higher viscosity than water.

***Emollients come in varying structures, solubility and molecular weights.

SMCC reviewed has been provided by Kiehl’s Malaysia.