From the romance, nature-inspired shades, sinuous shapes and sensitive colouring of Art Nouveau, to the delicate side of 1920s glamour, the soft side of the season is all about tinting the skin with washes of colour.
Veering between the pretty and pure and something more glamorously edged, these looks are less about recreating a retro look from the past and more about reinterpreting femininity by capturing the spirit of an era.
While lips and cheeks get a look-in with stains of fondant-y peach, apricot and strawberry tones, it’s a trend that’s essentially eye driven: lids and lower lashlines enlivened with diffuse, single-toned watercolour washes of pastels and flesh tones through to mink and rubs of charcoal. “What really feels contemporary is a colour that’s washed all the way up to the eyebrow, without any shading and highlighting in it,” adds Terry Barber noting that structured shading and multi tones would turn these colours in a bridesmaid-y direction. “The edges are still beautifully blurred so that the effect isn’t Pop Art” he adds.
The kit? Second skin texture powders and creams and bigger brushes,” explains Lyne Desnoyers. “A larger brush gives a looseness to the application, which is key.” You’ll likely want to forgo mascara too – there’s still an enduring appeal to a mascara-less lash this season, now a mainstay in the beauty lexicon of modernizing a look.
It’s sensual, ultra feminine, fluid and refined without being sugary or cute, pared back pretty at its best……
and here are some looks that reflect the Nouv-eau Trend.
Designer : Aquilano.Rimondi
Makeup Artist : Lottie Stannard
Eye
Lashes are curled
Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow – blended over the entire eyelid up to brows for a high metallic effect
M.A.C PRO Taupe Powder Blush Pro Palette – lightly blended through the crease and lower lashline to create a soft depth and contour
M.A.C PRO Shine Mixing Medium – dabbed over the eyelids and crease of the eye with fingertips
Zoomblack Zoom Lash – defines the upper lashline
Brows are minimally shaded to perfect
Lip
Oak Lip Pencil – softly defines and contours the lip
Woo Me Kissable Lipcolour -blended over the entire lip
Clear Lipglass – applied to the centre of the lip to finish
Face
Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15 – hydrates and prepares skin
Face and Body Foundation – applied over the enture face to even skintone
Select Moisturecover – applied only where needed to perfect
Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow – blended over upper cheekbones and bow of lip to highlight
Something Special Cremeblend Blush – applied over the middle of cheeks and blended downwards
Immortal Flower Powder Blush – blended over Something Special for a flush
Studio Careblend/Pressed – applied over the centre of the face to polish
Designer : Balmain
Makeup Artist : Tom Pecheux
Eye
Brows are lightly shaded to perfect
Lashes are curled
Lofty Brown Zoom Lash Mascara – applied at the root of both upper and lower lashes to define
Smolder Eye Kohl – applied through the root of upper lashes, then blended with fingers
Coffee Eye Pencil – applied through the waterline of lower lashes and then smudged to create an ‘after party’ effect
Lip
Lip Conditioner SPF 15 – hydrates and perfects lips with a natural finish
Face
Face and Body Foundation – applied to even skintone and perfect
Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder – blended through the centre of the face for a polished effect
M.A.C PRO Taupe Powder Blush Pro Palette – blended under cheekbones to contour
Designer : Costume National
Makeup Artist : Mathias Van Hooff
Eye
Copperplate Small Eye Shadow – lightly applied through the outer upper and lower lashline
Black Fix Studio Fix Lash – applied only at the root to define curled lashes
Lofty Brown Zoom Lash – blended through upper lashes only
Lip
Hue Lipstick – blended over the entire lip for a sheer, more pale effect
Face
Mineralize Charged Water – invigorates and prepares skin
Mineralize Charged Water Moisture Eye Cream – soothes and hydrates eye area
Studio Moisture Fix SPF 15 – hydrates and slightly illuminates skin
Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer – blended over skin only where needed with a sheer application
M.A.C PRO Crimson Lipmix – tapped into cheeks for a natural flush
Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder – applied through the centre of the face and under eyes to set and polish
Designer : DSquared2
Makeup Artist : Charlotte Tilbury
Eye
M.A.C PRO Black Black Chromagraphic Pencil – applied all around the eyes and them smudged outwards with fingertips
Venetian Tarnish Metal-X Cream Shadow – blended over the entire eyelid up to the brow and smudged under the eyes
M.A.C PRO Gold Glitter – pressed intoVenetian Tarnish Metal-X Cream Shadow
False Lashes Mascara – defines lashes
Lip
Cup of Joe Cream Eye Shadow, Trend Palette (available Spring/Summer 2012) – pressed onto lips with fingers
Face
C5 Face and Body Foundation – applied with fingers to warm up skin
Pro Longwear Concealer – applied only where needed to perfect
M.A.C Pro Sculpt Sculpting Powder Pro Palette – blended under cheekbones for a warm contour
Designer : Issey Miyake
Makeup Artist : Lucia Pieroni
Eye
Brows are brushed upwards to groom
Lip
M.A.C PRO Process Magenta Chromagraphic Pencil – applied through the centre of the lip and blended outwards
Clear Lipglass – just before line up; applied to the lower lip and Cupid’s bow for added dimension and shine
Face
Select Cover-Up Cover-Up Concealer – lightly applied over hydrated skin to even skintone and perfect for a natural matte finish
Fusion Gold Metal-X Cream Eye Shadow – blended over the upper cheekbones, bridge of nose and eyelids to highlight
Note : All images provided by MAC Malaysia PR and information regarding the trends and looks have been derived from MAC’s Spring/Summer 2012 Trends Book.